套染

 

This is an additional dyeing after the jeans have been sewn. This ensures a very deep dark or black colour and makes the sewing thread blend in with the jeans colour.

在牛仔裤缝纫好之后，这是一个附加的染色过程
。它要求一个非常深的黑或者是黑色
，并且要使缝纫线的颜色和牛仔裤颜色相协调。

 

Dirty wash

怀旧洗

 

After stone-washing the jeans or denim jackets, they will be dyed with special chemicals, thus creating a look in which the jeans will appear to be dirty.

石洗牛仔裤和牛仔夹克之后

，他们将再用特殊的化学物质再染一次，这样可以使牛仔裤看起来比较怀旧。

 

Destroyed/damaged/used/whiskers:

撕破/破坏/做旧/猫须

 

There are several different techniques to make the jeans or denim jackets look old, worn and /or used. Most of these techniques involve actual sandblasting or abrading by some kind of power tool. Whiskers, which normally appear around the hip to crotch area of the pant, are usually made by using a grinder. Another popular way to make jeans appear damaged is to cut the edges at bottom, (back-) pockets, fly and knee area before the (stone) washing.

有几种不同的工艺能够使牛仔裤或牛仔夹克看起来比较旧和破。大多数工艺包括目前的喷砂及利用一种电动工具进行打磨。猫须，通常出现在裤子的臀部和胯部，通常会使用研磨机

。另外一个流行的能使牛仔破损的方法就是水洗前，剪掉裤腿的边缘
，（后）口袋
，钮牌和膝盖部位
。

 

Laser marking/Spray painting, etc

镭射/喷涂，等

 

From the high-tech side there has been a renewed interest in the jeans and garment industry in general. A few of the very cool new inventions are: The jeans laser marker and the Jeans spray robot, as shown below. However, due to the relative high cost of these machines they are hard to find in these parts of asia.

从高科技角度

，在牛仔裤和服装行业一直都有一种更新的兴趣
。一些非常酷的新发明是：牛仔裤激光打标机和牛仔裤喷漆机器人
，下面会显示。但是，由于这些机器的成本相对较高，所以在亚洲部分国家很难看到它们。

 

Objects of invention

发明的物体

 

It is a primary object of this invention to provide a method for creating a stonewashed appearance on denim fabric and garments. 

这个发明的主要目的就是提供一种方法在牛仔布和服装上面创造一种石洗的外观效果
。

 

It is a related object of this invention to provide a flexible process which avoids the many disadvantages of using pumice stones or permanganate-impregnated pumice stones to create colour and wear appearances on denim fabric or garments. 

这个发明的相关目的是提供一个灵活的工艺，避免利用浮石洗和高锰酸钾石洗带来的很多损害

，从而在牛仔布和服装上面创造颜色及耐久性的外观。

 

It is a further and related object of this invention to improve upon the cellulase-based treatment processes of the prior art. 

这是更深入的和相关这个发明对象在先前技术上改变酶的处理工艺。

 

It is a further and related object of this invention to provide an efficient, low-cost process using foamed cellulases to create a high-quality stone-washed appearance on denim fabric or garments using standard commercial washing equipment, which does not damage the fabrics or the machines in which the fabrics are processed. 

这个发明的更深入和相关目的是提供一个高效、低成本的工艺，利用发泡纤维素酶创造一种高质量的石洗牛仔及服装外观，并且用不会损害面料和机器的标准的商业水洗机进行处理
。

 

Foaming agents

发泡剂

 

Acceptable foaming agents include, for example, exthoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated alkyl phenols, ethylene oxide and propylene oxide block polymers, carboxylic acid amides, sulfated amides, amine oxides, ethoxylated amines, sulfated, phosphated, or carboxylated alcohol ethoxylates, sulfated phosphated, or carboxylated alkyphenol ethoxylates, sulphated, phosphated, carboxylated or sulfonated alcohols, and alkyl carboxylates.

可使用的发泡剂包括，比如
，乙氧基化醇类的硫酸酯、乙氧基烷基酚类化合物、环氧乙烷、胺氧化物、乙氧基胺
、硫酸盐
、磷酸盐、或是乙氧基乙醇羧化物、硫酸盐磷酸盐、或者羧酸盐烷基酚乙氧基

、硫酸盐、磷酸盐、羧酸盐、磺化乙醇和烷基羧化物
。

 

Foam stabilisers 

泡沫稳定剂

 

Acceptable foam stabilisers include natural gums such as locust or guar gums, the carboxymethylated or ethoxylated derivatives of starch and cellulose, and synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acid derivatives. 

可使用的泡沫稳定剂包括自然树胶
，如蝗虫或者瓜尔豆胶
，羧甲基化物或是淀粉和纤维素的乙氧基派生物
，及合成聚合体如聚丙烯酸的派生物。

 

The invention is further described in the following Examples: 

下面的例子更进一步地说明这个发明

：

 

Denim garment processing: the eco-friendly way

牛仔服装加工：环保方式

 

The domestic readymade garment sector is booming, and garment processing has emerged as one of the important production routes towards meeting quick changing demands of the fashion market. In this article we look at processing of denim garments.

目前国内服装市场很兴旺，为了迎合瞬息万变的时尚服装市场变化
，服装加工已经成为一条非常重要的生产路径。在这篇文章里面，我们将看到牛仔服装的加工过程

。

 

Advantages of garment processing

服装加工的好处

 

* Increases the opportunities available for differentiation of the end product. 

增加最终产品差异化的机会。

* Offers option to retailer, which are not available in piece good finishing. 

针对产品的销路好坏，为零售商提供选择
。

* Gives opportunity to impart unique looks and finishes that cannot be achieved in fabric form. 

给予产品独特的外观和后处理效果，这些是在面料时无法现实的
。

* It allows to hold colour and finishes until the last minute and enables you to shorten the time to market. 

即使到最后了
，都能加上颜色和后处理效果
，能够加快产品更新换代的速度。

 

The spread of denim culture, all over the world brought with it a trend of fast changing fashions. One after another, several washes were introduced such as stone wash, acid wash, moonwash, monkey wash, snow wash, frosted wash, white wash, mud wash, etc. Over the last 6-8 years, India has probably seen the most dramatic and exciting changes in the washing of denim garments.

牛仔文化的传播，给全世界带来了快速变化的时尚风潮。紧接着
，一些水洗方法被介绍出来，如石洗、酸洗
、月亮洗
、喷马骝
、雪花洗、霜洗
、洗白、泥洗等。过去6-8年
，印度已经见证了牛仔服装水洗最戏剧性和激动人心的变化。

 

Desizing 

退浆

 

Traditional desizing is performed by using acid or oxidative desizing agents, which is associated with many drawbacks and limitations. Due to uncontrolled and non-specific reaction, the cellulose material gets damaged and loses strength. With the introduction of enzyme based desizing process, the limitation and drawbacks of traditional desizing process can be overcome. The enzymatic desizing process is performed by using alphaamylase enzyme.

传统的退浆是利用酸或者氧化退浆剂现实的
，但是这个方式有很多缺点和局限
。由于不可控制和没有明确反映

，纤维素物质受到破坏并失去弹力
。随着酶介绍到退浆过程中，传统的退浆的缺点和局限得到了改善
。酶的退浆工艺通过阿尔法淀粉酶运行的
。

 

Advantages of enzymatic desizing over traditional desizing

酶退浆相对于传统退浆的优势

 

1. Due to very specific reaction of enzyme, there is no adverse effect on cellulose, therefore better strength retention.

由于酶的非常明确的反应

，所以对纤维素没有幅作用
，因此有较好的强度保留。

 

2. Saving of water as multiple washing is not required to remove the residual chemicals after desizing.

节水，由于多重洗水退浆之后不需要除去剩余的化学物

。

 

3. Process time of desizing can be reduced.

退浆能够减少加工时间
。

 

4. Neutralisation is not required because same processing conditions are required in next process, therefore zero salt formation in ETP.

中和不要求了，因为同样的工艺条件被要求在下个工序里，因此在ETP里没有盐形成
。

 

5. Saving of energy as desizing takes place at moderate temperature.

节能，因为退浆在中等温度下进行。

 

6. Feel of fabric is much softer and less hairiness on the fabric.

面料手感更加柔和
，面料上更少的毛
。

 

7. No adverse effect on other bath auxiliaries due to mild process condition.

由于温和的加工条件
，在其他浴助剂上没有幅作用。

 

8. No adverse effect on Lycra or polyester containing fabric.

对于包含莱卡和聚酯的面料没有幅作用
。

 

9. Handling of chemical is safe and easy.

处理化学品更加安全和简单。

 

10. No adverse effect on machinery.

对机器没有损伤。